July, 30 diary Lisboa final diary – part 1 (26th and 27th of July)
After dwelling in Lisboa today in Chiado, starting by Rio Teijo, walking some very touristic and some very quiet streets, I decided to walk back to Alfama. Crossing Mouraria, I stopped to sit down at the exact same spot where we started the project on Monday, Graca. Surrounded by a soft breeze, crickets, French tourists who play tennis and some local youth (and their music) I will type the last part of our diary. Rick left for a festival Friday evening and Dagmar left yesterday evening, Merlijn and Thomas are staying at Casa dos Baldaques where Annick is editing our short diary of this week.
Dagmar and I left you on the 26th of July, when we interviewed Carlos do Carmo, so I continued writing from there at Graca and went to Santa Luzia for a lemonade and the publishing of the diary.
Wednesday (26th of July), Pedro invited us to come to one of his Fado houses, Associacao do Fado Casto, where we had a great evening. We were the first guests and a reserved table with tapas was welcoming us. The food was very nice (almost everybody stopped being a vegetarian) and when the Fado started around eleven we where charmed. Rodrigo Rebelo de Andrade was a fantastic singer. Joana also came to listen, it was nice to meet her in another context than the interview Tuesday and we had a lovely small chat. When Pedro arrived later he joined us for a while before he started playing. He told that the building of the restaurant was an old theatre. Since we accidentally passed the Fado house at first, we’d already spotted a museum where we could see ruins of this theatre through the windows. Hearing Pedro play again together with Rodgrigo was such a good ending of the evening. We stayed, talked a bit, had a very good time and took a taxi to get home.
Thursday (27th of July) we started the day with some filming near the river Teijo (Tagus). After that Annick started editing the first part of our diary of this week at the house, while Dagmar, Rick and I prepared an interview at Rick’s ‘’home’’ (actually his hotel, but since he stayed in Lisboa a lot of times, he just called it this way very soon) in Chiado. After that we went to the station to make sure Dagmar’s back-home journey was fully fixed. Back home Thomas and Merlijn had cooked us a very nice risotto!
We went to film at the Clube de Fado, which is always referred to as ‘the place to be’ to hear Fado. Mario Pacheco, who is the owner of the restaurant and also a very good player of the guitarra, is the owner of the house. The atmosphere was very different from the places where we’d been till that moment: it was much more chic. Guests where already arriving while we waited for Mario do Pacheco and we were a bit anxious about the time we would have left to do the interview, since Mario do Pacheco also had to play afterwards. But in the end we could ask all the questions we had. It was not that easy to film the music and after two songs we where sent away. After some Ice cream at the same shop where we met Andre Baptista, we went to Duque de Rua, a Fado house where we asked to sing and play on Friday. Helder, the owner of the café welcomed us and we had such a good evening with live Fado and a very warm atmosphere! This Fado house is different from the ones where we’ve been before. All evening long different people sing a couple of Fado’s, with some breaks in between. Almost everybody in the café sang and this natural way of singing, playing and listening together was an experience we all enjoyed very much. After a talk with Helder he introduced me to the viola player and welcomed us to sing and play on Friday. A lot of people in the café spoke Portuguese and we were only able to have small conversations with the people who understood English, but everybody was actually being very friendly to us. I even started to understand some of the talks that were in between the Fado’s.